How To - Clean Those Wetbike Carburetors 


Parts Needed, Tools Needed, Step-By-Step, Adjustments


Topic:                           Cleaning and setting carbs


Expertise Required:      Moderate


Estimated Time:            Depends. If in the bike about 1 1/2 hours. If you pull the motor, about an hour.


Parts Needed:             Carburetor Cleaner (Aerosol) - Berryman's B12 or equiv.


Tools Needed:             Here's what I use:

  • 6mm and 8mm open-end for throttle linkage
    • Small Crescent works just as good
  • 10mm wrench for throttle cable (unless someone put an 11mm on there in the past) and emulsion tube
  • 10mm socket, 3 inch extension and ratchet
  • 12mm wrench for carburetor nuts (unless someone put 13mm ones on there in the past)
    • 12mm "shortie" - if you try to pull carbs with motor in the hull
  • 14mm wrench for pump nuts
  • Screwdriver - Flat Blade for hose clamps
  • Pipe Cleaners - the kind with the little plastic bits in them

 


Step-By-Step:               Carbs can be pulled in the bike or after the motor is pulled (much easier)

Begin by disconnecting the battery

(motor in the hull)

  • Disconnect the fuel line from the tank
  • Remove the dialectic shield
  • Disconnect fuel lines from the carburetors and let them drain
  • Remove all of the carburetor mounting nuts (will need shortie for right-side nuts)
  • Slide choke solenoid back and move it clear
  • Slide carbs off of the manifold - be careful not to kink cable
  • Remove throttle cable
  • (jump to cleanup phase) 

(motor pulled and on work table)

  • Remove the dialectic shield
  • Disconnect fuel lines from the carburetors and let them drain
  • Drain carbs (on 60hp bikes)
  • Remove all of the carburetor mounting nuts (will need shortie for right-side nuts)
  • Slide choke solenoid back and move it clear
  • Slide carbs off of the manifold and place on work table
  • (jump to cleanup phase) 

Cleanup Phase - one at a time

  • Start with the lower carb and remove the 4 screws holding float bowl on - note the upper carbs has brackets on it. You may have to "rap" it a bit with a screwdriver handle to get it to dislodge. Be careful, could be full of funk, green corrosion,cocaine-looking stuff or just plain syrup
    • Carefully pull float pin and set the float, the pin and the needle aside. Be sure the little red gasket is in good shape.
    • Take a 10mm socket wrench and remove the seat. Be careful that you don't manhandle things and break the float pin towers.
    • Take a flatblade screwdrive and remove the jet - being careful not to let things slip or booger up the jet.
    • Now remove the nozzle (emulsion tube) - the thing the jet was screwed into. Be careful here - there may be lots of junk holding it in there. Go slow and use carb cleaner to get it out.
    • Remove the pilot air jet on top of carb, then remove the idle-air screw (in the throat of the carb).
    • Begin cleaning the carb body - using the pipe cleaner to get through the top passage and the front passage for the idle-air mixture.
      • Get everything clean enough so that you can see right through the carb with no debris visible.
      • Take special care to run the pipe cleaner through the intake nipple and passage way. 
    • Clean the car bowl. Might require you to let some cleaner soak in there a while to break things loose.
    • Clean up the nozzle. This thing is perhaps the most important and needs to be spotless and all of the tiny holes need to be clear.
    • Cleanup the jet - but don't do anything that might alter the hole size and/or shape of either side of the hole
    • Take some carb cleaner spray and make sure the pilot jet is clear. You should be able to see through the holes from one side to the other. Note: They are NOT DRILLED through from the bottom.

Reassembly

  • Install the pilot jet into the top and tighten (not gorilla tight)
  • Install the idle-air screw and spring and tighten down until lightly seated. Then unscrew it 1 3/4 turns.
  • Install the nozzle (emulsion tube) and tighten. Then install the jet and tighten down - being careful not to booger up the end.
  • Install the seat - being sure the little red gasket is there - and tighten thoroughly. Be careful not to let tool swing around and mess up float towers.
  • Grab the Seat assembly, put it on the float and install the assembly (sliding the pin into place).
  • Adjust the float so that it sits level when you hold carb up with bowl surface level. Bend tab that needle sits on to get proper adjustment.
  • Put clean bowl on and re-install all screws (and brackets).

 Do the same with the upper carb and reinstall. 


Adjustments:                        There's very little to adjust on these carbs.

  • The idle-air mixture should be set initially to 1-3/4 turns out initially (lake testing may reveal that slight adjustments can be made to this setting).
  • The other adjustment concerns the synchronization of the carbs. That procedure is here

09/12/2017

Copyright 2012 Capt'n Obveeus

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