How To - Engine Rebuild (quickie)
Topic: More Commonly known as a Re-Ring. Even replacing the seals is optional.
Expertise Required: Intermediate
Estimated Time: About 2 hours - assuming you have the engine removed from your wetbike, seaflash, or jetstar
- Base Gasket (hard to find),
- Intake Manifold Gaskets (50hp)
- Magneto Base Gasket
- Carb Gaskets
- New Magneto Cover Seal
- New lower Seal (big one)
- New lower seal(s) in the aluminum housing
- and inner crankshaft seal (60hp)
- The CORRECT PISTON RINGS. Suzuki used 2 different sizes - be sure you have the right ones beforehand.
Shop Supplies: Carb Cleaner (Berrymans B-12), shop rags, clean cotton rags, oil drain pan, 1211, Yamabond, or equiv.
- 10, 12 and 14mm wrenches, 14mm socket, Large Socket for Flywheel Nut, Hand-Impact Set, Allen wrench socket for 1 bolt on 60hp bottom end, spark plug wrench, Torque Wrench
Power Tools: Ball or Stone Hone for cylinder walls, Flywheel removal tool (heavy one), 1/2 in. Air Impact
- Remove all of the electrical components
- Remove the flywheel nut and use puller to remove flywheel
- Use Hand-Impact and remove the Phillips Head Screws holding magneto on. Before you get it too loose, note the position of the timing mark. Take a picture if you can.
- Now use Hand-Impact and remove the screws holding magneto cover on. If you are careful, you won't need to replace that gasket
- Take Carbs and Fuel pump off as an assembly (take fuel pump off first) and drain bowls into oil drain pan. Then take the intake manifold and reeds off. On a 50hp you might tear the gaskets and will need new ones at assembly time.
- Take the coil, control unit (60hp) and the rest of the electrical stuff off
- Use a 14mm socket and break all of the bottom engine bolts loose. If this is a 60hp, remove the 1 10mm headed bolt down by the seal and the large GOLD allen-headed bolt inside.
- Remove the spark pugs and roll engine over onto the head (bottom up)
- Remove the rest of the bolts and pull them out (notice the different lengths) then bend the voltage regulator bracket out of the way (60hp)
- Dear God, be careful here. Suzuki did not de-burr any of the engines, so all of the edges are ultra-sharp. Wear gloves, or take a few minutes to de-burr the block and the lower half. Also be aware that on 60hp motors you'll see an area in one of the bearing bosses that just like a razor blade. Be careful.
- Tap the lower block half loose and carefully set it aside.
- Place a nice-clean rag down on the table and lift crankshaft out and place on table. Note: Be careful on 60hp engines as the upper bearing is a 2-piece design. If it falls off and hits the floor it ain't a quickie rebuild anymore. You'll need a new bearing - and someone who can press of the old inner biearing and press a new one on. Also - remove the C-Rings if you can and set them aside.
- Get your hone ready, get it lubed up good and run it in from the bottom of the motor. Be careful not to bottom out too hard against the head (remember you didn't remove it). Cycle up and down enough to break the glaze good
Inspection, Cleanup and Prep: At this point you need to look at a couple of things that could be show-stoppers. Inspect the piston skirts closely. If you see any cracks, it's game over. You either have a sloppy bore or a twisted crankshaft (or both)
Also, look to see if any of the bearing alignment pins are missing. If they are - look to see if they are embedded in the top of the pistons and/or in the head. This isn't catastrophic, but if you see damage in either area, you need to look and see if any of the pieces did any damage to the edge of the pistons and/or ring lands.
Finally, take a look and see if they rings are stick or are trying to stick a little anywhere. If there's a tight spot, it'll be a problem area later, you you might dodge the grim reaper for a while.
Note: If your bearings look like someone attacked them with a chisel, that's called "brinelling" and it's not great. Not fatal, but you might need to use some Loctite bearing strength sealant on the bearing shell at assembly time.
Clean block with parts washer, or whatever de-greaser you have. Get everything really degreased. Use a toilet brush and run it though the cylinder bores lots of times. If you have a smaller bristle brush, run it through all of the intake ports too. Don't forget to degrease the lower half of the block and the bolts.
Then, rinse both the block and the lower half in Hot Water and DAWN DISHWASHING LIQUID. Not any other brand. Don't argue. Have some kind of oil ready to wipe down the bores with. I use 2-stroke fogging oil - works great.
Rinse parts thoroughly and use compressed air to blow everything dry. You need to put some oil on those cylinder walls within the first minute or 2 after removing from the DAWN. They will rust that fast. Seriously - only 1 or 2 minutes. Be prepared!
Remove the old seals from the holder and press in new ones while the block is drying thoroughly. Also, remove the old rings from the pistons. BE CAREFUL - they can be quite sharp. Put the new rings on the pistons and get them lined-up correctly. Use a tap and go through all of the large 10mm threads (main bolts). Then take compressed air and blow them clean.
If there is any residual 1211 or assembly sealant, be sure to get it all off now - and use Acetone or something to get gasket surfaces ultra-clean.
Take a minute to lube-up the pistons with the new rings. A little fogging oil works good here - or 2-cycle oil. Then install the bearing C-rings back into the block. Make sure they seat correctly.
Take all of the seals and pack them full of waterproof grease - being sure to make sure the center lips are greased good.
Bolts - take the time to get them ultra clean and chase the threads if possible. If you don't have a tap-and-die set that fits this thread, use a wire brush and get the bolt threads ultra-clean.
Reassembly: Get those hands wiped clean, make sure the block is ready to receive it's new parts and . . . go. While the crank is laying on it's clean are, double-check that the rings are aligned with the alignment pins. Then let's go:
- Carefully lift up the crank (watch that upper bearing) and lower it into place. A little wiggling usually helps get the rings to pop into place. If it won't go - don't force it and risk breaking a ring. If you know they're lined-up right, you can use a little screwdriver to help them go (BE CAREFUL IF YOU DO THIS).
- Before you get near bottoming out, make sure the alignment pins are in the right place - and that the center seal is lined up with the C-Rings. If your bearings and saddles were attacked by the chisel ninja, now's a good time to apply the loctite to the saddles and bearings.
- Finish lowering the crank a little - then slip on the lower main seal and the aluminum seal holder.
- With all of the pins aligned, the center seal aligned, and the lower seals and holder in place - slide crankshaft all of the way down
- Now, get all of the alignment pins aligned, all of the bearing loctite smeared on, and the mating surfaces cleaned one last time
- Apply a tiny amount of 1200, Yamabond, or equiv. to the engine block. Use your finger and make sure it's just enough to "wet" the surface. Put a similar tiny layer on the mating half.
- Pick the lower block half on and tap it in place over the alignment pins making sure it lays down flat.
- Begin installing the bolts - making sure to dip, spray, or drip oil onto the threads. 2-stroke or fogging oil works good here too. If on a 60hp, don't forget about the bracket that holds the voltage regulator.
- Draw all of the bolts down hand-tight. and make sure you see 1211 oozing out slightly all around the mating surfaces.
- Grab your torque wrench and set it to 15lbs and torque all bolts (including hex on 60hp motors) in a criss-cross pattern (see service manual for procedure).
- Adjust torque wrench to 20lbs and hit all of them again (no bouncing on a torque wrench - just a stready pull)
- Set wrench for 25 and make another pass
- Set wrench for 29 and make a final pass
- Install the reeds and manifold (resist the temptation to use RTV here). No RTV on roller-bearing engines is the rule. 1211, Yamabond and specific Case Sealants are the exception.
- Install upper seal (if you are using a new one) into magneto cover, and install. Use hand impact to "set" screws to get last 1/4 to 1/2 turn or so
- Install magneto and get timing put back where it should be (line should be lined-up with center of hole) and use the Hand-Impact to set the screws. Be careful - these screws are itty-bitty.
- Make sure woodruff key is not a trapezoid. Replace if necessay. Install flywheel and torque to 120 to 140 ft/lbs.
- Before you install the electrical stuff take a few minutes to use a wire brush and clean all of the ground terminals. Hit all of the mounting areas on the block too. On 60hp bikes hit the steels that are inside the grommets in the black nylon housing.
- Check the wiring ground terminals too - replace any that look the wires may be corroded or crimped.
- For the rest of the male/female bullet connectors, use a green scotch-brite pad and rub off any corrosion. Then use some dialectic grease and get the electrical system installed.
- Look real closely at the main electrical plug. If you see any corroded or broken pins, it's time for a new harness. Both sides are still available.
- Now you can cleanup the mating surfaces of the motor plate and engine. Install new gasket and torque bolts down. New Lock Washers wouldn't hurt, but if you did a quickie, you're not interested in new washers are you?
- Start bike and run if for 30 to 45 seconds (long enough to feel the heat in the engine.
- Shut it down and check everything over good. Let it cool down for an hour. Maybe put it on the trailer and head to the ridin' spot.
- With bike on the trailer, but backed-down far enough for pump to get enough water, start it and run it about 5 minutes if you can. Check for any water leaks, loose wires, weird things in the bilge, etc. Get it good and warm - but be sure it's not overheating. When you start to see wisps of smoke and/or smell the sweet smell of burning paint - you have a water restriction somewhere you need to fix. Shut it off.
- Let it cool down about 10 minutes before you hop on and take it for a ride.
- When it's ready, get on and fire it up. Take a good long idle around (about 3 to 5 minutes if you can stand it). Listen close for any anomolies.
- Now the hard part of the breaking begins. Slowly roll on the throttle until it "almost" comes up on plane. Hold it here for about 30 seconds or so (putting a good load on the motor and building lots of heat). Let it drop back to idle and putt around for about a minute or 2 to cool off. Repeat this cycle about 5 more times - and let it cool down good.
- This time, crack the throttle about 3/4 open until it comes up on plane - then roll the throttle back down to idle and let it cool off again. Do this for 5 or 6 times and then head back to dock/ramp area to let it cool off for about 20 minutes
- Repeat step 7 but come up on plane and ride around for about a minute or two. Increase the cooldown time to about 2 or 3 minutes. Repeat this for about 30 minutes or so, then back to the dock for a cooldown.
- Now, head back out with a long idle to make sure motor is warmed up good. Bring it up on plane and ride around - but never get over about 3/4 throttle (4500rpm max) for about 1/2 hour. Also, vary your speed too. Dropping down to idle and launching back up on plane is encouraged - with a twist. Hold throttle wide open, come up on plane and accelerate to about 4500 rpm then roll things back to just staying on plane - then slowly work back up in speed. By now you should be through about 1/2 of that 5 gallons of fuel.
That First 50:1 Mix: For the rest of the tank, repeat step 9 above. As you get down to that last gallon, you can start doing WFO blasts of up to 3 or 4 seconds.
- When you're almost out, you can put some regular 50:1 in there and repeat step 10. After you get that burned to about 2 gallons left, you can start increasing full-throttle-runs. Just be sure to let it cool down good. Look at the plugs occasionally. You shouldn't need jetting changes, but you never know.
- As you finish your 10 gallons, you can start opening her up for extended periods. Another set of plugs wouldn't hurt here.
Copyright 2011 Capt'n Obveeus