How To - Rear Ski Removal & Replacement

Parts Needed, Tools Needed, Removing Pump/Ski Assembly, Inspection Cleanup & Prep, Re-gluing Ski, Reinstalling Ski/Pump

Topic:                          This is an article to help you successfully remove the pump/ski, remove ski, service the pump, reinstall ski properly and install it back under the wetbike.

Expertise Required:      Beginner

Estimated Time:            Give it a weekend - just to be safe (if you are a beginner)

Parts Neeed:               You will need the following parts:

      • New pump gasket (10-3012-162)
      • Alignment knocks (10-3011-189) if needed
      • Spacer sleeves (10-3012-193) if needed
      • Drain plug gaskets (10-3010-149)

Tools Needed:             You will need the following tools:

      • Hoist: Engine hoist (cherry-picker), overhead type, or tree with come-a-long
      • Tools: 14mm wrench(es) for nuts holding pump onto wetbike, Allen-Wrench (socket preffered) for the scoop bolts (if running a scoop) and the ski bolts, varous tools needed to remove rear skeg (philips head screwdriver and small crescent wrench), Hand-impact set (for pump drain plugs), and hammer
      • Strap: 8 footer (needed to put around hull so that it will be raised when engine is still in hull - while sliding pump/ski out from underneath)
      • Containers: Either Tubberware types or a Coffee Can
      • Milk Crate: Or small ice chest to slide under the hull once the pump/ski is removed (safety feature)
      • Big Hardware: 4" angle grinder and/or good hand files
      • Supplies: small tube of 5200 (black), cleaner of some sort like Denatured Alcohol - NOT - Brake Cleaner or Carb Cleaner


Removing Pump/Ski Assembly:  

Preferred method:

      1. Pull engine first and set aside.
      2. With one hand, lift up on hull and slide pump back to where shaft hits
      3. Make sure your ice chest/milk crate is in reach
      4. Lift hull up until it clears the shaft and slide pump out
      5. Put milk crate/ice chest under hull. If you let the hull sit on it's tail and the back of the front ski, it's easy to knock it over. Put something under there so that it's stable!

Alternative method:   Do what you need to do to get your hoist setup connected to the engine lifting lug. Take the strap and run it around the hull and connect it to the hoist too.

    1. Take off all of the nuts holding the pump on
    2. Set them in the coffee can (tupperware tub)
    3. Slowly raise the hull/engine paying close attention that things
    4. Lift hull up until it clears the shaft and slide pump out
    5. Put milk crate/ice chest under hull. If you let the hull sit on it's tail and the back of the front ski, it's easy to knock it over. Put something under there so that it's stable!

Inspection, Cleanup & Prep.:  Get this thing up on a table - it's easier to work on it that way. Get out the "calibrated eyeball" and start looking things over. Brush off any gunk and look for cracks around the front corners of the pump and around the mounting bosses (top of ski). Keep an eye out for previous repairs too.

Then swing around and look at the tail (from the wear ring back to the tail). Any cracks are bad, big cracks are worse.

Now roll the assembly over taking care not to damage the pump splines. Look closely at the following:

    1. If the front tips of the scoop have daylight under them?
    2. If the scoop doesn't have any sealant
    3. If there are any fasteners missing
    4. Check to see if you see any cracking anywhere (around mounting bolts, along the seams, along the strakes at the rear

Pull the scoop if you have one. Then remove the flatheat (countersunk) bolts holding the ski on. BE CAREFUL - if they have any corrosion, they're gonna fight you all of the way out. Take your time, use heat if you think that'll work. If you happen to strip out one of the allen-headed bolts, don't panic. Drill a 1/8" Hole completely through the bolt (takes a while) and then use a bigger drill to knock the head off (don't go all of the way through - just enough to get the head to pop off) (see starter rebuild article for example).

If your ski "does have" some sealant, be very careful when removing it. If it is 5200, you could accidentally delaminate the ski if you horse it too much. Use a putty knife from underneath and slowly work the ski off. Once it's off, you'll need to do whatever it takes to get all of the 5200 off.

Take a few minutes and look really closely at the following:

      • Front mounting tabs - or "wings" of the pump. If they are bent up at the corners, that'll need to be corrected prior to reassembly
      • Take nozzle off and look at wear ring closely. Any grooves you can feel with your finger and it's time to replace it. Remember, if you have to replace it later, you either have to remove the ski, or 3 of the 4 studs - since the wear-ring cannot slide back over the hump for the skeg
      • The threaded holes for the mounting bolts. If any of them are damaged, you'll need to fix them. I prefer to use Time-Serts (


      • Aluminum - if any bare aluminum is showing on the mounting surfaces, shoot it with a little dab of alumunum marine primer (zinc chromate) and maybe a shot of gloss black
      • Clean any remaining sealant off the the ski and toss it back up on top of pump
      • If there is aluminum protruding up above the level of the ski - hit it with the 4" grinder and/or hand files. NOTE: Wear safety glasses and a long sleeved shirt,pants and a hat. Aluminum chips will go everywhere and they're tough to get out of your skin/hair.
      • Take a tap and run though the mounting holes. Pay special attention to make sure it's clean all of the way to the bottom. Use a pic and compressed air to be sure.


      • While you're here, take the time to drain and refill the pump grease (90w).
      • Degrease everything thoroughly
      • Take some denatured alcohol and wipe down the mounting surfaces of the pump (face and sides)
      • Get out an old nasty shirt and some old rags you won't mind throwing away and open up that 5200
      • Run a bead right up against the vertical side about 1/4 inch thick all of the way around and let it run down a little
      • Now run another bead at least 1/4" thick all of the way around the rest of the face. Use your finger to spread it out to the edge. Add a little extra on the corners if needed
      • Slide wear ring on if it's not already. Use some RTV around the mounting faces of the wear-ring to insure against water pressure/leakage. Black RTV works great and cleans up easily.
      • Use 5200 and coat the mounting surface of the wear ring base too. You should now have a large "pad" of 5200 that the ski will rest on

Re-Gluing That Ski:     Step-By Step

      • Very carefully set ski down on top of pump and begin to line up bolt holes
      • Use a little 5200 on bolts and the countersunk surface (around the bolt hole) and slowly draw them down just barely hand tight
      • Let it sit overnight and then tighten the bolts down snugly. Don't overdo it - you don't want to crack the ski.
      • If the 5200 has flowed properly, you'll see a gap between the ski and pump opening. Make sure things are level and use a little more 5200 to fill this up level.

Note: 5200 Takes several days to cure properly - don't rush it. It also manages to migrate from squeeze tube to shirt, rags, pants, and your most expensive tools. Throw the clothing away and use turpentine or mineral spirits for cleaning those tools (and your hands).

Reinstall Ski/Pump:       Install new alignment knocks if needed - Then install new gasket onto pump surface. Take a quick peek at bottom of motor plate to make sure any remaining gasket has been removed.

Install assembly using the reverse of the procedure you did to remove it.

Note: With new gasket in there - it's a good idea to check the 8 pump nuts after each ride for the next few rides.


Enjoy . . .




Copyright 2011 Capt'n Obveeus

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